Sunday, September 23, 2012
In Nomine Patris Et Lumen Et Lavandula
320 days of sunshine every year. While the Greek Islands, southern California or the Canary Islands might first come to mind, Provence in southern France also holds the distinction of being one of the sunniest places in the world. Besides sunny, Provençal weather is also pleasant, with temperatures averaging 55°F (13°C) in winter and 82°F (28°C) in summer.
Until the 2nd century BC, Provence was known to Romans as Transalpine Gaul, literally 'land of the Celts on the far side of the Alps". By 146 BC, Rome had gained territories in Spain, thus eyeing Transalpine Gaul as a corridor to its newly acquired lands. Thus by 120 BC, Rome occupied that whole Mediterranean coast, creating the first Roman province beyond the Alps and calling it Provincia Nostra ("our province") or simply Provincia, the origin of the current name.
Roman influence on Provence was significant. In the 1st century BC, Roman policy towards its settlements outside Italy changed: whereas previously they were considered just sources of wealth to be plundered, under Emperor Augustus they were viewed as a solution to Rome's social unrest caused by landless peasants and idle veteran soldiers. He turned the provinces into extensions of Rome where landless citizens and legionnaires would settle, at the same time removing them from Rome and protecting the borders of the Empire. To make them feel at home, Augustus created replicas of Rome in each city, with arenas, baths, forums and temples, some of which are very well preserved, are in use and can be seen today in Provence such as the 20,000-seat Les Arènes amphitheatre in Arles and the Théâtre Antique in Orange, Europe's best preserved Roman theater with its 340ft (103m) wide, 120ft (37m) high stage wall, the only one still standing in Europe.
Roman influence in Provence did not end with the fall of the Empire. In 1309, French-born Pope Clément V moved the papacy to Avignon where seven pontiffs, all Frenchmen, led the Roman Catholic church until 1376. The Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes), the world's largest Gothic palace, dominates Avignon's old town and a visit will give you a glimpse into papal wealth though you'll need to use your imagination to picture how life was in the now bare palace.
But perhaps Provence is most known by all the painters who chose to call it home at one time or another, primarily in the 19th and 20th centuries: Renoir, Cézanne (born in Aix-en-Provence where you can grab a drink or a bite at Les Deux Garçons, one of his favorite cafés), Georges Braque, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Signac, Monet, Munch and my favorite van Gogh. The latter lived little more than two years in Provence but his most well known works were painted there. Nowadays, you can seat at the Café Van Gogh which he depicted in Terrasse de Café la Nuit and you can follow a route in St-Rémy (the birthplace of Nostradamus) that shows most of the scenes he painted there. So the question is: what attracted so many painters? Light, pure and simple. Light in Provence has a special clarity attributed to the mistral wind that is said to remove dust from the atmosphere and increase visibility. But mistral does something else...it can blow you away...literally. If you weigh less than 130 lbs (60 kg), stuffing rocks in your pockets is strongly recommended.
Another thing inextricably linked to Provence is lavender. The region is famous for its lavender fields with the July/early August peak bloom offering miles and miles of the purple flower for your visual and olfactory delight. Lavender has many uses in Provence: perfume, cosmetics, soaps, oils, candles, sachets, tea, cookies, ice cream. I tried the ice cream and at first bite it feels like eating perfume just because the scent is strong but once I got over that, it was surprisingly good-tasting. But then again, if it's edible and it's French, that's how it's supposed to be.
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