Some Like It Soft

'Land of Enchantment' is a lofty nickname for a state. But New Mexico may well live up to it - its scenery is varied with landscapes ranging from aspen and snow-capped mountains standing over 13,000 ft (4,000 m) to wide, cacti-covered deserts. The state is one of the highest in the country with an average altitude of 5,700 ft (1,740 m), and the combination of high altitude and dry climate creates a light that has inspired artists such as Georgia O'Keefe and Ansel Adams. But there's more to New Mexico than its looks. The state also has one of the most diverse populations in the US with the highest percentage of Hispanics and the second-highest percentage of Native Americans, mostly Navajo and Pueblo peoples throughout 22 different communities. Unique indeed. So unique in fact that it is the only state with an official question: 'red or green?' They're not asking if you're a communist or an environmentalist; it's your choice of chile. If in doubt, pick Christmas and you'll get both.

Santa Fe, the state's capital, is one of my favorite cities in the US just because, as its nickname implies, it is The City Different (if you drive from Albuquerque, take Highway 14, the Turquoise Trail, instead of I-25. Much more scenic with some quirky towns along the way). The first difference you'll note is the architecture - the low, earth-colored, Pueblo-style adobe buildings with their natural materials and soft, rounded shapes seem an extension of the landscape. They are solid, with very thick walls, yet delicate and inviting, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter as adobe stores and releases heat very slowly, a feature you'll enjoy immensely when it's 90°F (32°C) outside. The most popular adobe structures in the area are in the Taos Pueblo, 1.5 hour from Santa Fe. Built between 1000 and 1450, it has been inhabited ever since, with 150 people living permanently in the Pueblo nowadays. Currently it also houses art shops where you can meet the artists and even catch them in action. When there, don't miss the fry bread, delicious with cinnamon.

Santa Fean celebrations are also different. On the 4th of July, for instance, besides traditional evening fireworks, the city also offers Pancakes On The Plaza. Now in its 38th year, the event attracts throngs from the city and beyond to the central square where for $7 (proceeds go to charity), you get a very filling pancake breakfast and get to chat with the locals. To burn some calories afterwards, walk over to Lincoln Ave to check cool vintage cars. Another very popular event is the Christmas Eve Farolito Walk on Canyon Road when small greased brown bags containing votive candles are placed along streets, adobe walls and even roofs, creating a path of warm yellow glow in the cold night. Those who have seen it say it's magical, an unforgettable celebration of the holiday spirit.

And then there's art - Santa Fe is the third largest arts market in the country, with nearly 300 galleries and dealers. The art core is Canyon Road, formerly a trail used by Pueblo Indians and now lined with over 100 galleries showcasing sculptures, paintings, photography, antiquities and much more. The most common work of art in the Santa Fe region is Native American pottery, found in almost every shop in town. My favorites are from the San Ildefonso Pueblo in black-on-black, and from the Ácoma Pueblo, thin walled pieces that feel like eggshells usually with an elaborate design on a white background.

In my view, art is what makes Santa Fe so unique and gives the city its soul. You can't help being inspired here...by the landscape, the soft shapes (both natural and man-made), the impressive works of art you marvel at on every corner. Santa Fe somehow turned the "time is money" motto so dominant elsewhere in the country into "time is art".