Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Colonial Melt



Founded in 1533 by the Spaniard Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena in Colombia has always attracted many throughout its history. In its early days, the draw was the gold found in Zenú (or Sinú) tombs, a local tribe who customarily buried the dead with their possessions. The Spanish plundered it, but they were not alone; pirates soon found out about it, and Cartagena became a prime target. In response, the Spanish built stone fortresses and massive walls around the city, some 65-feet (20 m) thick, turning Cartagena into one of the most protected cities in South America. Most of these fortifications still stand today.

Nowadays, the biggest attraction in Cartagena is its colonial architecture, one of the best preserved in the world. The survival of so many structures, some dating back to the 16th century, is the result of a tragedy: in 1552, a fire turned the village to ashes (most of the buildings at the time were made of wood) and since then, only stone, brick and tile are allowed as building materials. Fortunes amassed with all the trade going through Cartagena (of goods and slaves) enabled the construction of stunning homes and mansions. The typical house has a colorful exterior, making all of Cartagena's historic streets very lively. Balconies on the second floor usually nest plants and cascading flowers while an inner courtyard, usually filled with plants, provide plenty of natural light and a respite from the heat.

And hot it is in Cartagena: the average temperature is 81ºF (27ºC). However, humidity tends to be above 75% so it usually feels like more like 95ºF (35ºC). You will sweat in buckets, and you'll also understand why siesta is a must in some places. And that's arguably another plus in Cartagena...the heat will force you to slow down, to go for a siesta or a swim mid-afternoon, or seek refuge in a café or ice cream parlor, slowly savoring a moist tres leches (three milk) cake, my favorite, or an exotic ice cream flavor...like níspero, a fruit I had never heard of but one of the best I've ever tasted. And among the vibrant beauty of the city, you'll rediscover how wonderful it is to slow down and not do much.