Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Eternal Daylight Of My True Paradise

Iceland Summer Pics

Under ordinary circumstances, I’d never go to the same country twice in the same year. But there’s nothing ordinary about Iceland. I knew I’d be back one day…I just didn’t know it’d be so soon. All I can say is this - Iceland is full of surprises, and just like it sneaked into my travel plans earlier this year, it created perfect conditions for a summer trip.

When I left Iceland on March 28th, a small eruption on Fimmvörđuháls was sending cute white plumes up to the skies. It stopped on April 12th, and two days later on April 14th, Eyjafjallajökull decided to show the world what fire and ice can do. Many of my friends told me how lucky I was to have gotten out of Iceland before that, but it’s all a question of perspective: I actually felt very unlucky. And with every blast of ash it blew up in the air, I could picture little Eyjafjallajökull sneering at me with a “See what you’re missing?” Oh, how I wanted to strangle that unspeakable volcano!

Eyjafjallajökull did more than bring air travel to a halt and leave millions stranded; it made some people think that the whole country was blanketed in ash, causing a drop in the number of visitors. Lower demand equal lower prices, and if on one hand my little friend denied me its grand spectacle, it opened the door for my summer return.

Summer in Iceland is relative, though: with temperatures below 60˚F (15˚C), it is colder than winter in my hometown of Rio de Janeiro. When I still lived in Rio, I caught a headline once that named Iceland the country with the highest quality of life in the world, and I remember laughing because I found it unfathomable that a place that would feel like a refrigerator to me could offer any quality of life. But that is the beauty of travel: you learn to see things differently, and Iceland turned out to be like nothing I had envisioned.

Iceland has been called the “land that defies imagining” (National Geographic), the “land where nature always gets the last word” (The Geography of Bliss), a “magical epic land” (Lonely Planet). Iceland is all this, but no matter how much you read about it or how many photos you see, Iceland cannot really be described or depicted, it can only be experienced. No words or pictures will ever be able to capture a place that is fierce yet delicate, compact but seemingly vast, grand in a subtle way.

To me, Iceland is simply the most awe-inspiring country I have ever seen. Iceland is a work in progress, a place that breathes, heaves, gets transformed before your eyes (for instance, the country gained a new mountain in between my visits). Iceland is an experiment of nature, and all this changing and reshaping is contagious: Icelanders have a “let’s try it” attitude, and experiment with sounds, design, art, and can sometimes create truly unique and intriguing things.

And now that I’m back to my “normal” life, I miss Iceland a lot. I miss the endless daylight, the choir of countless birds at sunny midnights, the clean air, the sun that doesn’t burn, the clear streams that reflect the color of the sky. I miss the red traffic lights in Akureyri, almost all of them heart-shaped to remind people to “smile with your heart”. I miss being able to see for miles wherever I look. I miss getting sprayed by waterfalls, watching the weather change numerous times a day, getting awestruck by the scenery at almost every turn. But most of all, I miss a place that gives me the feeling that there are several open roads, both physical and metaphorical, ahead of me to be explored, a place that lifts the spirit, and makes me feel simply extraordinary.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Is Paradise Really There?

Bahamas Pics

The Bahamas comprises 29 islands, 661 cays and 2,387 islets, but its most well known piece of real estate is Paradise Island, home to the mega-resort Atlantis. What many don’t know is that the isle was once called Hog Island and used mostly for farming until it was purchased in 1960 by Huntington Hartford, the A&P supermarket heir, who gave the island its current name.

Paradise Island is only 4 miles (6.4 km) long and 0.5 miles (0.8 km) wide, and is dominated by Atlantis, the sprawling resort that is the most expensive place to stay in the Bahamas, occupies 97 acres, offers 2300 rooms in three different towers, and contains 20 million gallons of lagoons, pools, waterfalls and aquariums. Talk about gigantic.

But mammoth though as Atlantis is, I soon realized that something was missing, and it wasn’t an erupting volcano – it was character. Tourism accounts for about 50% of the Bahamian GDP, and of the two million plus tourists who come to New Providence Island every year (where Nassau, Cable Beach and Paradise Island are located), 85% come from the US. It shows…Atlantis feels a lot like a tropical Vegas, and I had to remind myself every now and then that I was in the Bahamas, not in the US.

Paradise to me is a place that inspires wonder, lifts the spirit, leaves you elated. While Paradise Island is an ingenious, well-executed endeavor that offers the ultimate in comfort, it feels so contrived, so artificial that it becomes faceless. Paradise Island didn’t make a memorable impression on me precisely because it tries too hard to be grand, and therefore fails to create a connection.

This is not to say that Paradise Island shouldn’t be visited. There are enough pools, slides, activities to give anyone hours of fun and thrills. So if you’re looking for a quick 3 or 4-day tropical escape near the US that won’t require a lot of planning, by all means, come to Paradise Island. But look elsewhere if you want authenticity. That I fortunately found in my June destination, a place of extraordinary character and charm. It is coming up next.