High and Low

Jagged, raw, blustery - all these words can be used to describe Nova Scotia. With 4,600 miles (7,400 km) of coastline and nowhere more than 42 miles (67 km) from the ocean, Nova Scotia is inextricably linked to the sea and its cycles. Located halfway between the equator and the north pole with an area of 21,300 sq. miles (55,200 sq. km) and a population of less than 1 million (with over 1/3 living in and around the capital Halifax), Nova Scotia feels blessedly empty, a perfect place to visit when you need peace and quiet. As I only had 5 days in Nova Scotia, I decided not to spend too much time on the road and picked two regions not too far from Halifax: the South Shore and the Bay of Fundy.

The South Shore is Nova Scotia's most visited coast, a stretch of fishing villages dotted with quaint cottages and lighthouses. The best way to see the area is by taking Highway 3 that hugs the shore and cuts through all the towns. The highlight of the region is Lunenburg, the largest of the villages and a Unesco World Heritage Site. Lunenburg was a major shipbuilding center and it was here that in 1921 the Bluenose was built, a fishing and racing schooner that remained undefeated in international racing for 17 years and now resides permanently on the Canadian dime. Its replica, the Bluenose II, is used for summer sailing cruises but is currently undergoing a major rebuild. Lunenburg continues to be an important port but fishing and shipbuilding have given way to tourism as the main economic activity - the town's colorful gingerbread-like houses seemingly straight out of a fairy tale now attract thousands of visitors each year.

The Bay of Fundy, located between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, is known for the highest tidal range in the world - up to 53 feet (16 m) between low and high tides with over 100 billion tons of water flowing in and out of the bay daily during each 12.5-hour tide cycle, more than the combined flow of all freshwater rivers in the world. All this ebb and flow has eroded the landscape into the dramatic scenery we see today of jagged cliffs and rock formations. A great way to see the region is to hike one of several trails that lead to one of the overhanging cliffs or explore the shore at low tide but be warned: many tourists have ignored the tidal cycle only to find themselves stranded when tides come in. I'd probably have been one of them were it not for the weather - on the day I had planned a hike in Cape Chignecto Provincial Park overlooking the bay, rain followed by a thick fog forced me to ditch my plans. Bummer, I thought. But as the mists rolled in and blanketed everything in white, it totally changed the scenery...it became eerie, a bit lunar, and as I looked at the empty, almost desolate landscape with the sound of waves as my only link to the rest of the world, I was reminded of the beauty of travel - you never know what's coming your way and you'll make the most of it when you welcome it.