Blown Away

It’s a strange feeling going out around midnight and needing sunglasses to protect your eyes from the sunrays. Likewise, it’s weird waking up at 9 am and seeing it’s still pitch black outside. This is Iceland, land of contrasts, a place that challenges you but makes it extremely rewarding in the end. I never complained about the 24-hour summer daylight – it was amazingly energizing. And the late winter sunrise wasn’t bad at all…I stayed in bed until very late, something I hadn’t done in months.

But catching up on my sleep wasn’t the reason for going to Iceland in winter. One major draw were the northern lights. They are the result of solar particles colliding with the earth’s atmospheric gases, and the 2012-2013 season is expected to be very good due to heightened solar activity. Seen in high latitudes (usually from 65 to 72 degrees), they are best viewed on cloudless skies with little light, and the colder, the better. And cold it was the night I saw them, with a wind chill of 10ºF (-12ºC). Yes, it was painful, but there’s something mesmerizing about those green lights dancing through the sky that I (almost) forgot how gelid it was. It’s bearable, as long as there is no wind. And there's a plus side to it...after spending 3 days in those sub-freezing temperatures, you'll actually feel warm when it's 34ºF (1ºC).

Speaking of wind, an uninvited guest showed up while I was in Iceland earlier this month – hurricane Sandy or whatever was left of it. Technically, it was no longer a hurricane but with 60 mph winds (95 kph) blowing nonstop, it sure felt like one. At times, it was utterly impossible to walk, at times I got pushed where I didn’t want to go, and other times I had to cling to a lamppost or fire hydrant lest I ended up in the Faroe Islands. But somehow the combination of bitter cold (think ice), volcanic ash from last year’s Grímsvötn eruption (think dust) and lashing winds (think swirls) created one of the most fiery sunsets I’ve ever seen. Check out the photos and you’ll understand why I’d gladly go through this again.

Another major reason for going to Iceland in winter, especially in October, is the annual Airwaves Festival which highlights both Icelandic and international up and coming alternative acts. For roughly $250, a pass gives access to any show in any of the venues during the 5-day festival. Better yet, even when passes sell out, there are numerous free off venue shows around Reykjavík by the same artists so there’s plenty of opportunity to catch anything from pop to metal, hip hop to folk.

This year, the festival’s closing show was by Sigur Rós, a band that defies definition. Their music ranges from the almost angelic to almost metal, and they go from one to the other seamlessly, somehow making it all hang together. If you haven’t heard them yet, pick up Takk or Með Suð Í Eyrum Við Spilum Endalaust (try saying this and you’ll find that Eyjafjallajökull is a piece of cake…), their two best albums in my opinion. They'll tour the US in spring, and I highly recommend going. In a way, their music and their show reflect Iceland – it’s a journey and you don’t know where it is going to take you. All you know is that there’s always a surprise in store for you, and most likely, it will blow you away.