Going Wild

“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.” – Edward Abbey

Some places can’t help but leave you in awe. And as nature would have it, Utah and Arizona got more than their fair share of extraordinary scenery. In Utah, two national parks close to each other are a must: Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park, both part of a geological feature called the Grand Staircase, a string of colorful cliffs carved by water that stretch between Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon.

With altitudes ranging from 6,620 (2,108 m) to 9,115 feet (2,778 m), Bryce Canyon forms the top rung of the Grand Staircase. In spite of the name, it is not a canyon but a collection of natural amphitheaters filled with spires, pinnacles and arches, with hoodoos (rocks left standing by erosion) the most intriguing formations. Once you see the amphitheaters, you will understand why the Paiutes called it “Red Rock Standing Like a Man in a Hole”. At 55 square miles (142 km²), Bryce Canyon is the smallest of Southern Utah’s national parks but the most visually stunning, in my opinion. A number of trails bring you close to the hoodoos and, despite the altitude, they are not as punishing as you might think and the views make it absolutely worth it.

Further down the Grand Staircase is Zion, the “Promised Land”, stretching over 229 square miles (593 km²) in southwest Utah. Its altitude range - from 3,666 (1,117 m) to 8,726 feet (2,660 m) – creates great natural diversity: the park has over 1,000 species of plants and an abundance of wildlife, including some 208 species of birds, 69 species of mammals and 29 species of reptiles. Trails also abound, from easy 0.4-mile (0.6 km) strolls to the famous The Narrows, a 16-mile (26 km) hike where you spend 60% of the time wading in the river. And I have to admit that, though it sounds amazing, wallowing in cold water for some 10 miles (15 km) is not exactly my idea of fun.

The last rung of the Grand Staircase is the Grand Canyon but, having been there in the past, we opted this time to visit Antelope Canyon, a small slot canyon within the Navajo Nation, where it is known as “The Place Where Water Runs Through Rocks”. Though also carved by water, just like the layers in the Grand Staircase, the formations in Antelope are markedly different…the canyon is very slim, with walls that twist upward like waves, an otherworldly and breathtakingly beautiful vision. You could spend a whole day here gawking at the canyon’s curves and colors but, unfortunately, entrance is only allowed on a licensed tour. It does get crowded but it is well worth it, and the best time to visit is between 11 am and 1 pm when the sun may create light shafts within.

So there we had it: three places, all carved by water, but each totally unique. Not only was I totally captivated by their raw beauty but I was also reminded of the power of nature. It surprises, it dazzles, it soothes, and when you spend some time walking in it, it makes you move, breathe, sleep and even think better. And it is our responsibility, not to mention in our own interest, to take good care of what nature gives us.