Saturday, February 14, 2009

Coveted Beauty

June 2008

Croatia has a long history, and a turbulent one. Having been part of the Roman Empire, areas of the country now known as Croatia passed by the hands of the Byzantine Empire, the Kingdom of Hungary, the Ottoman Empire, the Austrian Hapsburg Empire, the Republic of Venice, Napoleonic France, and finally Yugoslavia. Croatia declared independence in 1991, but Croats had to fight a bloody war against the Serbs of former Yugoslavia. Dubrovnik, one of Croatia’s most well known cities, was heavily shelled during the war and here are some scenes of the attacks - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU0JPXUmg44, which left Dubrovnik under siege for seven months.

Dubrovnik has been called “heaven on earth” by George Bernard Shaw but is commonly known as “Pearl of the Adriatic”, as Lord Byron named it. Call it whatever you want, but one thing is certain: Dubrovnik is enchanting. Its Old Town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and after severe damages caused by the independence war, it underwent a major restoration program. By 2005, most of the work had been completed.

The Old Town is the highlight of any visit to Dubrovnik. It is tiny, fully pedestrianized and the main sights can be visited in one day, which is what legions of cruise ship passengers do. In my opinion, though, one day is not nearly enough to discover all that Dubrovnik has to offer.

If you come by land, your entry point to the Old Town will likely be Pile Gate, a massive stone structure reached by a stone bridge. Inside the gate, there are usually street musicians performing throughout the day. If you come in summer, you’ll immediately realize that Dubrovnik has a Mediterranean climate and you’ll likely be drenched in sweat by the time you’re done crossing the gate. Once inside though, there are two things to refresh you: one is the Onofrio Fountain with its potable cool water and a little further down the street, an ice cream shop with creamy flavors that just melt in your mouth. My favorite was cinnamon.

Placa is the main street in the Old Town and links Pile Gate to the Clock Tower. It’s lined with stone buildings fronted by stores and cafés, but its most striking feature is the marble pavement, which at night shines under the street lamps. A must in Dubrovnik is to walk the stone walls that encircle the city, allowing you to have a bird’s eye view of the Old Town. One of the entrances is by Pile Gate and you’ll be able to see cliffs used for sunbathing and as platforms for diving, numerous historic buildings, bright orange terracotta roofs, and the extensive Dalmatian coast. This walk around the gate will give you ideas for places to check out later, such as cafés perched above the sea or bars hidden in narrow streets. Go late in the day when it’s cooler and the light is much better.

Back in town, the best thing to do is to put away your map and just get lost in the narrow streets that radiate from Placa. Discover stone houses surrounded by potted flowers, bars and restaurants with live music, talented street musicians performing around town. For such a small place, the Old Town has something for everyone and a rushed visit would be just a waste.

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